Oil leaks are a common issue with automotive engines. No matter how well you take care of your car, you will probably run into it at some point. Additionally, oil leaks are a common problem that affects more or less all autos.
Oil leaks are a hassle, and once they happen, fixing them can take a lot of time. If your car is older, the best course of action is to prevent this problem from occurring. To prevent leaks from developing in your car, you can use oil additives. Well, this is why am providing you the lists of the best oil stop leak additives so you can prevent your car oil from leaking.
You should note that this is not a sponsored post, all products listed here are based on their top performance in the market.
So, let’s dive in!
Contents
Best oil stop leaks additives
The following are the lists of oil-stop leak additives in today’s market:
STP High Mileage Oil Treatment
BlueDevil Oil Stop Leak
Lucas Oil 10278
ATP Automotive Re-Seal Stops Leaks
Bar’s Leaks Oil Stop Leak Additive
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Small oil leaks from the piston rings into the automobile cylinders can be stopped with the STP. As a result, smoke is avoided, and engine performance is controlled. You will find the additive to be quite effective if you apply it according to the directions. In order for it to function correctly, the appropriate amount of oil must be applied.
One of the most affordable solutions offered is the STP HIGH Mileage oil treatment. Despite the inexpensive cost, the device performs superbly and comes highly recommended. If you have small leaks, this stuff is fantastic. When there are slight oil leaks and stains in older engines, this additive performs nicely.
STP is the ideal additive for use in high-mileage engines. However, it could be challenging to utilize the additive to repair particularly large leaks or seals in contemporary cars. If your finances are extremely limited, this additive can assist stop leaks for a short period of time until you perform proper repairs.
Best Engine Oil Stop Leak Additives...
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Best Engine Oil Stop Leak Additives Reviews [2021 UPDATED]
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Oil leaking problems can be permanently fixed with the BlueDevil additive. The additive is very simple to use, and people can utilize it without risk. This additive is very adaptable and performs well in both gasoline and diesel engines. The safety of the car and the condition of the engine won’t be compromised by this additive.
Due to its high cost and outstanding performance outcomes, it is the top choice on our list. BlueDevil is the brand to consider if you have no financial constraints and want to select one of the best oil-stop leak additives that are high-performing.
BlueDevil has been in business in this industry for many years and offers its clients cutting-edge items. This product’s composition is quite effective and does not negatively impact the engine in any way. Despite being the most expensive item on this list, the additive is reasonably priced. When you utilize the additive to fix your engine leaks, there won’t be any blockage either.
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By increasing oil pressure with the Lucas engine oil additive, engine noise is also decreased. The majority of customers expect engines to work quietly, which is what yours will do. You can get the most out of the 32-ounce unit because it is long-lasting. Furthermore, this item is quite functional and does more than just stop oil leaks.
A well-known international brand, Lucas is renowned for its adaptability and performance. The Lucas Oil Engine Oil is suitable for all kinds of automobiles and aids in avoiding corrosion. With petroleum, semi-synthetic, and synthetic oils, you can use the oil additive. All of the seals can be rejuvenated by the oil additive without endangering or corroding the engine.
You will notice a big difference after using the oil addition because it improves the performance of your engine. The Lucas Oil Engine Oil is the finest option if you’re looking for an oil additive that is reasonably priced but effective.
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The ATP automotive re-seal prevents leak is a fantastic alternative in the field of the best oil-stop leak additives. Due to its outstanding efficacy, ATP is a well-known manufacturer of oil-stop leak additives and is frequently suggested. The additive accomplishes its intended function of preventing corrosion, leaks, and rust.
After using this product for a few hours, you will see that the leaks have stopped because of how quickly the additive activates. Without any problems, all of the seals that were previously open will be re-sealed. Applying this compound will revitalize engines that have rubber gaskets and seals.
The additive also aids in the revitalization of power steering, transmission, and hydraulic systems. Given that it is only needed in small amounts, the additive has a high life with a unit of 6 quarts. The additive works with traditional and synthetic oils, gear oil, and power steering fluids. The additive does not degrade the seals because Petroleum Distillates are not present.
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Bar’s Leaks is an additive with a quick activation time that is particularly user-friendly. This implies that after adding the oil stop leak additive, you may assess the performance within a few hours. The additive also doesn’t include any dangerous substances that could eventually wear down or ruin the engine. The use of this additive is intended for difficult-to-repair seals. It’s not necessary to be an expert to utilize the additive application because it’s so simple. This is a really simple fix for all of your oil leakage issues.
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Oil stop leak additives FAQs
Do Oil Stop Leak additives work?
The quick response is kind of. While the new formulas will frequently stop the leaks, they are not a long-term fix. Sooner or later, the damaged seal will need to be replaced.
Which is the best additive to stop an oil leak?
The finest engine oil stop leak product available right now is Lucas Oil’s 10278 Engine Oil Stop Leak if you’re searching for all-around defense. Use the ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks if you want to stop leaks and save money.
Does Engine Oil Stop Leak damage engine?
Be mindful that many oil additives only offer an immediate, temporary solution for tiny leaks. A single emergency use won’t necessarily harm your engine, but frequent use can be more detrimental than beneficial. Excessive chemicals frequently settle out over time and clog the system.
Does Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak work?
What the video below to confirm if Lucas engine oil stop leaks:
How long does stop oil leak last?
So how long should you anticipate them lasting? It varies. We’ve had clients run 10,000–50,000 miles with no further problems if the leak is modest to moderate. The repair time may be shortened if the leak is more serious or on the verge of becoming serious.
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How long does it take for Oil Stop Leak to work?
When changing engine oil or in between oil changes, add the entire bottle of stop leak. Typically, leaks end after 200 miles or three days of driving. A second treatment may be necessary if the leak persists, or mechanical repair may be necessary.
Does Stop leak mess up your car?
Many individuals believe that employing stop leak items to stop a transmission fluid leak can result in financial savings. Unfortunately, there is a large cost associated with employing leakage-stopping solutions. Your vehicle may sustain permanent harm from stop leak products.
What happens if you put stop leak?
The stop leak product that was added to the cooling system begins to degrade, dry out, and fragment over time, allowing debris and possibly even a huge clump to fall freely into the cooling system.
Can I drive 3 hours with an oil leak?
If you find that your car is leaking oil, you should refrain from making long drives in it. The temperature of the oil may rise along with the temperature of your engine. It might catch fire if it leaks onto the hot exhaust.
What is the most common oil leak?
Especially in older vehicles or cars that are driven regularly and have a lot of miles on them, the gasket is probably the most frequent reason for oil leaks. The gasket serves as a seal between the engine’s head and other metal components, such as the engine block and the head(s) and the oil pan.
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That is all for this article, where the list of the best oil stop leak additives are being discussed. I hope you learn a lot from the reading, if so, kindly share with others. Thanks for reading, see you around!
While we here at EngineLabs try to deter our readership from cutting corners, there is no denying the fact that “stop leak” additives are here to stay. From the U.S. military’s widespread usage of Marvel Mystery Oil during World War II to the advent of the undeniably ubiquitous line of products claiming to be a “repair in a bottle” line the shelves everywhere you look.
However, being that most drivers are entirely too busy (or flat-out “mechanically challenged”), conducting an engine teardown just to replace a gasket or a few leaky O-ring seals is completely out of the question for them. Being that gasket, seal, and O-ring replacements also require a significant amount of financial investment, the appeal of an inexpensive quick fix remains quite alluring to many.
But do these self-proclaimed “stop leak” products actually work? If so, how well? And perhaps more importantly, what happens when they don’t work as advertised? Will they bludgeon our precious seals faster than a boatload of money-hungry Alaskan fur traders in the late 1800s?
I guess we’ll just have to find out…
Not too long ago, Todd over at Project Farm LLC released a comparison video, where the unbiased (and outright enthusiastic) YouTube product tester pitted fourteen engine stop leak products against one another. A video that the clever content creator claims were intended purely for “entertainment purposes,” and did not influence the contents being placed in shopping carts across America.
But before meeting Todd’s contenders, his methodology for testing these products must first be examined. Which in true Project Farm fashion, are equal parts effective, well-illustrated, and strikingly simple.
The goal of the test was straightforward: Compare a handful of stop leak products and determine their ability to condition/soften hardened rubberized engine components, with brand-new parts like gaskets, O-rings, and seals being the primary focus.
Resistance to evaporation during normal engine operating conditions while providing adequate lubrication and cooling was also taken into consideration, as was viscosity in cold conditions, and wear and tear on metal-to-metal contact points.
As with any Project Farm comparison test, a slew of products were selected, with Todd opting to put fourteen additives through the proverbial gauntlet this time around.
While there are a ton of other oil additive options to choose from out there, time constraints kept Todd’s findings focused on some of the more common products you’d find down at the local auto parts store, along with a few online oddballs thrown in for good measure.
Some of these products proclaim that they are intended purely for engine oil enhancement and seal repair purposes. Whereas others boast that they have the power to fix leaks and lubrication issues within differentials, transmissions, power steering systems, hydraulic units, and more.
In the case of this particular Project Farm test, Todd’s contenders included:
According to his introduction within the video, Todd’s key focuses remained zeroed-in on the following considerations:
Oil viscosity
O-ring “rehabilitation”
Impact on new O-ring resilience
New engine component safety
And like any mad scientist worth his salt, Todd began his testing with a control. In this case, this meant using a 40ml dose of full synthetic Pennzoil 5W-30.
For the metal-to-metal comparison test, a simple belt-driven lathe and grooved wheel making contact with a steel pin was the tool of implementation. After measuring the diameter of the groove and the energy exerted via the use of an energy usage meter, each oil additive was put to work.
During testing, a 50/50 blend of stop-leak and the aforementioned motor oil was implemented in 30-second testing increments to prevent excessive damage from poorly performing products.
Each test was then followed by an inspection with a microscope and a set of calipers to confirm the effectiveness of the product in regard to reducing (or increasing) wear-and-tear on the metal pin contact point. Furthermore, a new mixing straw was used for each brand to eliminate any cross-contamination between products.
In between each round of testing, splashes of brake parts cleaner and a quick resurfacing of the test wheel with sandpaper removed any residue or grooves leftover from the previous round. Thus guaranteeing a fresh surface after each round, regardless as to how much metal was shaved off, steam was emitted, or splashing occurred.
After conducting the metal wear test, Todd placed each blended test sample into a freezer to see if those claims that “engine viscosity will not be affected” were true or not. Naturally, there were some clear winners and failures, with a 24-hour cooldown period in the freezer resulting in certain products performing better than the straight motor oil, while others merely turned to sludge, or worse yet, became frozen globs.
While all fourteen blends were chilling in the deep freeze, the O-ring testing portion of the gauntlet was taking place. Naturally, brand new gaskets were utilized, all of which were first measured and then dropped into 100-percent straight stop-leak test cups for 48 hours at room temp. Todd explains that he did not blend the additives with the motor oil for this stage due to the separation that was observed with certain products.
As the O-rings soaked, a standard strip of gasket material and a bunch of brand-new O-rings were dropped into a beaker (a.k.a. coffee pot) of motor oil that had been heated to 350°F for 2 hours.
A quick durometer test showed a much harder O-ring, with a material circumference that was about 6-percent thinner than prior to the heat treatment that had just been implemented. After throwing the heated O-ring seals back into a blend of each product with the motor oil, everything was weighed once again and reheated for two hours to see if any of the rings could recover.
After weighing, results showed that the straight synthetic motor oil only lost 0.02 grams during the entire 2-hour heat cycle. Now as for the additives and how they faired, this side of the examination was pretty polarizing. Heavily evaporated products provided respectable O-ring protection, while heat-resistant samples didn’t do much if anything for the rubberized rings.
As the final results chart above clearly illustrates, unheated O-ring soak times were also intriguing, as many products didn’t make a bit of difference in the durability or size of the new ring in question, while others did help the rubber to slightly soften and expand.
Being that gaskets are just as important and widely utilized as O-rings within a combustion engine, this form of material too had to be put through its paces. While we are not entirely sure as to what type or thickness of gasket was used, Todd explains that it was an unused item that had merely been cut into strips for usage.
While the whole O-ring boil side of the experiment was taking place, those strips of boiled gasket returned their own round of results. A quick poke with a pick and a press resulted in the scales showing a few products out in front in the gasket puncture test, with others performing miserably.
Torture testing complete, and findings all tallied up, the top performing stop leak additives included SealLube (which coincidentally was also the priciest product tested) and ATP’s AT-205.
Whereas the SealLube didn’t do well when it came to reducing wear, it practically dominated in almost every other category, including the O-ring comparison test, heat comparison showdown, and viscosity rankings.
The only other product that was able to best SealLube was the AT-205, which came out on top thanks to its superior wear resistance and O-ring rejuvenation capabilities.
Now as for the rest of the pack… let’s just say that they either did an alright job, or flat-out failed to deliver when it came to lubing up those dark black donuts or reducing heat-related wear and tear.
If you want to see all of the raw data, make sure to watch the video. We’ll post up our takeaways from each of the fourteen findings below and let you mull over what was discovered. Either way, we tend to steer clear of stop-leak type products in general, instead opting to fix things the proper way, and therefore view these types of tests for what they are intended to provide: Pure entertainment.
ATP AT-205 “Re-Seal”:
Settled at the bottom of the container and needed remixing prior to testing, and was literally steaming hot after the metal wear testing stage was complete. However, it managed to redeem itself by returning the O-ring almost to its original size and making it even softer than new. It also scored very well in the freezer viscosity test, earning it the top spot as the overall best-performing product.
Bardahl “NoSmoke +Stop-Leak”:
Very thick and therefore performed extremely well in metal testing and did not evaporate under heat, but didn’t do diddly-squat for O-ring repairs.
Liqui Moly “Pro-Line Oil Loss Stop”:
Provided less wear on the wheel and lowered friction, but evaporated a lot during heat testing. And while it did soften the O-ring slightly it did not restore its circumference, and almost froze solid during viscosity testing.
Lucas “Engine Oil Stop Leak”:
Requires a 1:4 blend ratio with motor oil and did alright, with O-ring testing being very close to that of the Bardahl stop-leak. Viscosity testing and heat treatment were just alright, as were gasket puncture test results.
Bar’s Leaks “Engine Oil Stop Leak Concentrate”:
Created more friction and wear and zero change to O-rings after heat testing. A middle of the road contender that did more harm than good overall.
Lubegard “Seal Fixx”:
Kept separating from the motor oil and caused loads of damage and evaporation, but did help restore some O-ring circumference and returned the ring to its original hardness level.
Hapco “Pro-Seal”:
Medium amounts of damage despite blending well with the oil, and served as a decent O-ring restorer.
Blue Devil “Oil Stop Leak”:
Separated almost immediately and created a reasonable amount of friction, it also boiled off a lot during heating, but helped some during O-ring testing. Another product that seemed to provide more risk than reward.
XADO “Engine Oil Stop Leak Concentrate”:
Only product on the roster that was made in Ukraine, which performed poorly in the metal friction stage, with mediocre evaporation and O-ring results.
SealLube “Seal Expander”:
Most expensive product tested ($35), and didn’t do well at all in regard to wear, but dominated in almost every other category, including the O-ring comparison test, heat comparison test, and viscosity ranking.
Promeko Inc. “Snake Oil”:
Pretty significant wear damage, but surprisingly, not the worst either, even though it didn’t help O-rings at all after not boiling off one bit.
CD-2 “Heavy Duty Sealer”:
Lots of damage to the metal pin, but little evaporation and slightly softened O-ring results, even though it couldn’t help the seal expand much in size.
Justice Brothers “Engine Stop-Leak”:
Became very hot and vaporized into steam, with the same metal pin damage ratio as the CD-2 product. It also boiled off the most during O-ring testing, yet somehow restored the O-ring’s size and softness to near original specs.
Wynn’s “Engine Oil Stop Leak”:
Made in Belgium, and blends well with motor oil, but it created the largest wear scar at 9.35mm during metal testing. However, it did fairly well during O-ring heat testing, and was dead center in the gasket puncturing challenge.
Oil seals are found in a wide range of applications, in virtually every industrial sector. It is essential to select the correct oil seal so that the application in which it is used can run efficiently, free of leaks or other issues. In this blog, we explain which factors you should pay attention to when selecting the best oil seal for your application.
The group of oil seals used in dynamic applications include radial shaft seals that seal a rotating shaft around its circumference. They are also known as lip seals, but in this blog we will use the term oil seals.
Usually, these oil seals are used to seal lubricating oil or grease and contain it within the application, so that moving parts such as bearings are continually supplied with enough lubrication. However, such seals are also used for sealing other liquids, gases, and solids, such as powders or granules.
An oil seal consists of:
An outer case, a body made of metal or provided with a rubber layer
A rubber or PTFE sealing lip
A spring, the composition of which depends on the type
The lip is specially designed to ensure the oil seal works effectively with the different forces that arise during rotation. Many different designs and materials are used, so countless types of oil seals are available. These are chosen according to the application; pumps, gearboxes, wheels, and many other rotating applications where fluids need to be sealed. They are used in a variety of sectors, such as the chemical industry, manufacturing, wind turbines, automotive sector, food industry, and more. Oil seals are used in nearly all sectors.
What should you take into account when selecting an oil seal? Different types of oil seals and various types of materials are available, each designed for specific uses. It is also important to select the right size of oil seal for the best results. For this reason, selecting the right oil seal requires adequate understanding of the application in which it will be used.
Most standard oil seals have to comply with the DIN 3760 and ISO 6194 standards. Different standard types of oil seals are available that comply with these requirements.
The most common oil seals are the ERIKS types R, RST, M and MST, which correspond respectively to types A, AS, B and BS according to DIN 3760/ISO 6194.
DIN
Standard 3760/3761
ERIKS
DIN
A
Standard 3760/3761
Rubber covered
ERIKS
R
DIN
AS
Standard 3760/3761
As type A with dust lip
ERIKS
RS
DIN
B
Standard 3760/3761
Metal cased design
ERIKS
M
DIN
BS
Standard 3760/3761
As type B with dust lip
ERIKS
MS
DIN
C
Standard 3760/3761
Double metal cased
ERIKS
GV
DIN
CS
Standard 3760/3761
As type C with dust lip
ERIKS
GVST
All are fitted with a spring to preload the sealing lip. All these types are for non-pressurised or low-pressure applications up to 0.5 bar for diameters of a limited size. For diameter of 500 mm or more, the maximum pressure is 0.1 bar. For higher pressures, special types or PTFE lip seals can be used.
ERIKS type M (type B according to the DIN standard) has a single metal casing and rubber sealing lip. Since the casing is made of metal, it must be fitted in a well-finished, undamaged groove. Large volumes of oil seals with metal casings are often cheaper, which is why they are often used as original equipment in machines. However, if an oil seal has to be replaced, types with a rubber exterior (type R or RST) are easier to fit. Type MST is similar to M and commonly used. The difference is the dust lip in the MST oil seal that prevents dust and dirt reaching the sealing lip, and extends its service life in dusty environments.
ERIKS type GV (type C according to DIN) is equivalent to type M, but is a heavy-duty version with a double metal casing. This can be a useful solution with larger diameters in more demanding applications. There is also a version of this type with a dust lip; the GVST (type CS according to DIN).
ERIKS type R (type A according to the DIN standard) is identical in shape to type M, but has a rubber outer case with metal reinforcement on the inside. The rubber creates a good seal in the housing, even if the housing has suffered minor damage or is not in its best condition for other reasons. The RST version has a dust lip. These types are often chosen to replace a type with a metal outer case because they are easier to install and can cope with minor damage to the groove, such as scratches.
ERIKS also supplies the types GR and GRST. These are virtually identical to the types R and RST, except in this case the metal inner ring is also completely encased in rubber. ERIKS uses FKM rubber here as standard, so these seals are ideal for use in acidic environments.
An overview of the different standard types of oil seals and their main characteristics is shown below.
In addition to these standardised types, the following special types are also available:
Rubber oil seals with a rubber fabric outer case
These are comparable to type R and RST, except the outer case does not have a metal reinforcement ring. To compensate, the outside is not made of normal rubber, but a hard, heavy-duty rubber fabric. The advantage is that these types can be made in a split version. They are almost always produced to order, and made of NBR or FKM.
PTFE Lip seals
These types are made with a metal outer case and a PTFE lip. They are suitable for a wide range of temperatures from -90 °C to +260 °C.These lip seals can also be used for higher pressures of up to 10 bar (special types up to 25 bar) and rotational speeds of up to 40-45 m/s. Certain grades of PTFE are suitable for use in pharmaceutical and food applications. One important point is that PTFE lip seals do require a shaft with a harder, smoother finish.
Cassette Seals
Cassette seals are designed to maximise grease or oil retention and protection against liquid or solid contaminants. These seals are provided with their own bushings in which dirt is kept out and oil/grease kept in by a multi-lip seal.
These cassette seals are widely used in wheel-end applications, such as the axles of agricultural machinery or off-road trucks.
Oil seal for higher pressures
The sealing lip of the RST-D is more heavy-duty, so it can cope with pressures of up to 10 bar at slightly lower rotation speeds.
Reinforced GVP design for larger diameters, with rotation speeds of up to 15 m/s and pressure of 3-4 bar
Outer case
Metal
The metal used in the outer case of oil seals is usually made of carbon steel. Upon request, and depending on quantities, a different type of steel (such as stainless steel) can be used.
Rubber or rubber fabric
The quality of the rubber or rubber fabric used to make an outer case is the same as the quality of the rubber sealing lip. Fabric reinforced rubber is, as the name suggests, rubber reinforced with a fabric.
Spring
Standard springs are made of carbon steel. We use stainless-steel springs for our GR and GRST oil seals made from FKM rubber. In some rare cases, an O-ring is even used as a spring element. Standard PTFE lip seals are not fitted with springs.
Sealing lip
The sealing lip is always made of a rubber or synthetic material. For oil seals with a rubber outer case (R, RST, GR, GRST), the rubber quality of the sealing lip and the outer case are the same.
The material of the sealing lip is chosen according to the liquid to be sealed and the rotational speed. For larger shafts, an NBR sealing lip can cope with surface speeds of up to 10-12 m/s, while an FKM lip is suitable for speeds of up to 35-38 m/s.
Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR, nitrile)
NBR, also known as nitrile rubber or nitrile, is the most popular material for an oil seal because of its good resistance to many oils and greases, such as mineral grease and hydraulic oil. Depending on their composition, synthetic oils and greases, such as those based on glycol, can damage NBR rubber materials. Depending on the amount of glycol, a PTFE lip seal may be the best choice. NBR is also unable to cope with contact with acids and solvents. The rubber is suitable for oil and grease at temperatures from -35 °C to 100 °C.
Most ERIKS oil seals, such as the types M, MST, R and RST, are made of NBR as standard.
Fluorine rubber (FKM, Viton™)
FKM or FPM, which is in well-known brand Viton™, can withstand higher liquid temperatures of up to 180 ˚C. FKM is highly resistant to strong acids and bases, as well as to synthetic oils and greases. Glycol-based oil and grease, however, can also damage FKM.
Because of the higher temperature resistance of FKM, this material is also chosen for applications where higher speeds play a role, which raise the temperature at the sealing lip considerably. Usually, using FKM will result in a longer life than using NBR. This compensates the higher price of FKM compared to NBR, as an FKM does not have to be replaced as frequently. The low temperature resistance of standard FKM is limited to -15 ˚C.
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon®)
PTFE, which is used in the well-known brand Teflon®, is less commonly used, but it is the preferred material for specific rotating seals in the chemical, food and pharmaceutical industries. This material is notable for having a very low frictional resistance and the best chemical resistance. It can also withstand a very wide range of temperatures in these types of seals; -80 ˚C to 200 ˚C. The shafts on which oil seals with PTFE lips are used require a harder and finer finish. Something like an axle sleeve can also be used to meet this requirement.
EPDM
EPDM oil seals are less common. They are used in solvent, hot water and steam applications, EPDM resists low temperatures down to -50 °C and UV radiation well. Some types of EPDM are also suitable for higher temperatures up to +150 °C. EPDM oil seals are usually available upon request.
VMQ (silicone)
VMQ, also known as silicone, is also used for oil seals, but this is less common because the mechanical strength of VMQ is low and this material has poor wear-resistance This makes it less suitable for dynamic applications, but it can withstand fairly low and high temperatures from -60 °C to 200 °C. Many types of VMQ are also suitable for contact with pharmaceutical and food products, so VMQ is an option worth considering. VMQ oil seals are usually available on request.
Rubber type
Material Code ISO 1629
Heat resistance
Rubber type
Nitrile
High wear resistance good running properties for general use
Material Code ISO 1629
NBR
Heat resistance
-35 °C to + 100 °C
Rubber type
Polyacrylate
Better heat, oil and chemical resistance than NBR
It is recommended for use in oil which contains load bearing additives such as EP gear oils
Material Code ISO 1629
ACM
Heat resistance
-20 °C to + 130 °C
Rubber type
Viton®
High level of chemical resistance
High temperature resistance
Material Code ISO 1629
FPM
Heat resistance
-15 °C to + 180 °C
Rubber type
Silicone
Wide temperature range
Commonly used in low temperature applications
Very prone to mechanical damage during fitting
Material Code ISO 1629
MVQ
Heat resistance
-50 °C to + 150 °C
Rubber type
Polytetrafluoroethylene
Chemical resistant
Low coefficient of friction poor elastic properties not wear resistant if used by dynamic applications
Material Code ISO 1629
PTFE
Heat resistance
-80 °C to + 200 °C
Rubber type
Leather
Recommended for abrasive applications
Good running properties, due to the impregnated seal lip
Can be used on shafts which have a surface roughness outside the range for rubber seals
Not suitable for water
Material Code ISO 1629
-
Heat resistance
-40 °C to + 90 °C
Oil seals are available in an immense range of sizes, for shafts from a few millimetres to several metres. Once the shaft diameter, groove diameter (housing diameter) and groove width are known, selecting an appropriate oil seal is a simple task. An oil seal or its product description is usually associated with three dimensions, for example 6x15x4. These refer to the sizes of the hardware for which the oil seal is designed. In this example, this oil seal is suitable for: 6-mm shaft diameter x 15-mm groove diameter x 4-mm minimum groove width.
Have you found the right oil seal for your application? The next step is fitting the oil seal correctly, so that it remains undamaged.
Before fitting the oil seal, it is essential to check that the oil seal, shaft and bore are clean and undamaged. The surfaces the oil seal will come into contact with must be free of sharp points or burrs. The sealing lip is fragile, so even minimal damage can cause a leak. It is also important that the shaft and bore are correctly finished.
To install an oil seal properly, the shaft must be undamaged. This is so the oil seal can do its job properly on the one hand, and to prevent it from being damaged during fitting on the other. In addition, it is very important to lubricate the shaft, the sealing lip and the bore with plenty of grease. This will allow the oil seal to slide more easily over the shaft and prevent dry running after the first rotation. The oil seal may also come into contact with the keyway, thread or other grooves when sliding over the shaft. By taping or covering the shaft at the location of these irregularities with oil-soaked paper, the oil seal can be mounted without damage to the sealing lip.
Other important factors are ensuring the hardness and roughness of the shaft are correct. A shaft hardness of HRC 45 is recommended for a rubber sealing lip, with a roughness of Ra 0.4-0.8. A higher shaft hardness of HRC 60 and shaft roughness of Ra 0.1-0.4 is recommended for a PTFE lip.
Always start by making sure the oil seal is facing the right direction. The oil seal must be positioned with its spring to the side of the medium to be sealed. The oil seal must then be pressed into the bore. It must fit tightly (H8 in the groove is recommended). Use appropriate tools for this, such as an impact socket set, to ensure that the force is applied evenly during pressing. The oil seal must never be hammered into the bore with brute force, but eased in.
See here for more information and useful fitting tips.
Stijn de Cnop
Product Manager of Sealing & Polymer Technology
Product Manager of Sealing & Polymer Technology